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Birdingextremadura.com WINTER TOUR FOR BEN, LIZ AND IAN MACDONALD |
Birdingextremadura.com WINTER TOUR FOR BEN, LIZ AND IAN MACDONALD By Martin Kelsey
ITINERARY Day 1: Thursday 3rd January Pick-up Madrid: 17.30 Day 2: Friday 4th January Ricefields near Madrigalejo (Palazuelo, Vegas Altas and Casas del Hito) Free Day: Saturday 5th January Morning walk Pago de San Clemente and afternoon in Trujillo. Evening watching the cavalcade arrival of the Three Wise Men to the Main Square. Day 3: Sunday 6th January Plains west of Trujillo and Santa Marta de Magasca Additional half day: Monday 7th January Pico de Villuercas near Guadalupe Day 4: Tuesday 8th January Monfragüe National Park Additional full day: Wednesday 9th January Santa Marta de Magasca and Casas del Hito Day 5: Thursday 10th January Arrocampo and return to Madrid for check-in at 15.40.
TRIP REPORT Day 1: Thursday 3rd January
Liz, Ian and Ben arrived at Madrid airport on the flight from Bristol just ahead of schedule a few minutes before 5pm. Baggage reclaim was quick and it was still light as we left the airport, taking the M40 ring road south of the capital. There was heavy traffic so it took a bit longer than planned to reach the A5 motorway for Extremadura, but once we were on it, the traffic eased and we were made excellent progress, reaching Casa Rural El Recuerdo by 8.30, under a starlit sky. An open fire in the hearth welcomed us and within minutes dinner was being served in the old wine cellar of the house. Day 2: Friday 4th January Although a dull overcast day had been forecast, and indeed it dawned as such, the clouds moved on quite quickly and we enjoyed a lovely sunny day exploring the rice-growing areas around the town of Madrigalejo. We drove first of all to Palazuelo, stopping at the edge of the village to watch Red Avadavats and Spanish Sparrows in the reed-filled ditch close to the rice silo. We then took a quiet minor road, allowing us to pause often to see our first family parties of Common Crane feeding in rice stubble. Red Kites often appeared overhead. At the River Ruercas, we stopped for coffee and a fine Black Kite came into view, one of the very few overwintering birds that stay on in this area. Cetti’s Warbler gave short bursts of song, whilst a mixed flock of Brambling and Chaffinch fed in maize stubble, often flying up into the riverside trees. The bugling calls of cranes could be heard from almost every direction and small groups were often diverting our gaze skywards. A party of Azure-winged Magpie noisily moved through the trees and we were delighted to have good views of a male Little Bittern flying up from a patch of reeds and flying towards the river. All too brief views were obtained of an elusive Penduline Tit, but the search for it subsequently, although in vain, did enable us to be in the right place to spot an adult Bonelli’s Eagle, which afforded us prolonged views as it soared and then drifted away. A Black Vulture was also seen soaring with a few Griffon Vultures, and soon afterwards a group of about 40 White Stork was also spiralling upwards in a thermal. We had lunch overlooking the Sierra Brava reservoir, where a few Gadwall, Mallard and Great-crested Grebe were in view, although there were larger rafts of duck far off in the distance. We then drove to the ricefields and cereal plains around Vegas Altas. Most of our time was spent crossing the drier fields and we were well rewarded by excellent views of Black-bellied Sandgrouse in flight (over 40 birds and several flypasts) as well as long views of a pair on the ground. Despite distance, good light enabled us to be well satisfied with views of a flock of 18 Great Bustard: the males initially at the top of a field, and then striding in their typically stately fashion down the slope to a group of females. The same field had a family group of cranes. A pair of Little Bustard flew into a nearby field and fed quietly. Not to be outdone, the flocks of small passerines were impressive in their own right: Calandra Lark, Corn Bunting, Skylark and Spanish Sparrow. Sometimes they were put up by Hen Harriers: both a male and a female were quartering the zone. All this was seen whilst we stood in one spot! The sun was getting lower and the late afternoon movement of cranes was just starting, so we left Vegas Altas (stopping to admire a fine Hoopoe and a group of Tree Sparrows en route, as well as rather distant views of a Merlin) for the evening spectacular at the nearby Casas del Hito. Again watching from a single spot, we revelled in the sight of thousands of cranes gathering in the fields, as gently undulating lines of hundreds of others descended to join them. As light fell, a Black-winged Kite flew from its perch to hunt, rising up to hover and then dive down on stiffly held wings. A Great White Egret crossed the sky. A male Hen Harrier, looking ghost-like in the dusk, methodically worked the fields in front of us. The sun had set by the time we left, but still long skeins of Grey Lag Geese crossed the crimson sky. A Quail called briefly from the stubble and just before reaching the main road, we paused to look at the large Cattle Egret and Jackdaw roost in the roadside willows, the egrets sounding as they were deep in conversation. Day 3: Sunday 6th January Although the day started much like yesterday: damp and misty, the cloud rose progressively and it remained dry. We visited first of all a small reservoir on the outskirts of Trujillo where amongst the Little Grebes, Mallard and Pochard was a delightful pair of Ferruginous Duck and a fine male Red-crested Pochard. A Black-winged Stilt threesome added further interest. We then took the road towards Cáceres, leaving it after ten kilometres to follow the minor road towards Santa Marta de Magasca. At the first bend in the road, as the habitat changed from dehesa oak woodland to open plains, we stopped to scan. Eventually we picked up a winter flock of Little Bustards (at least 35 in view and probably others hidden amongst a tall growth of old thistles). A little further along the road we stopped to look at the large mixed Lapwing and Golden Plover flock, and had good views of Calandra Lark. We picked up the calls of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, but at that stage only distant flight views were obtained. Just prior to our next scheduled stop, we came across a pair of Great Spotted Cuckoos, very early migrants, which obligingly perched on the fence just in front of us, enabling us to have a superbly close view, below they flew across the field. Parking at the top of a dirt road, we had good views of a very boldly marked Thekla Lark and heard Woodlark singing in the dehesa beyond. The Great Spotted Cuckoo was found again along the track and we watched it drop frequently onto the ground in search of prey. Soon we had found groups of Great Bustard and in due course over 30 had been found: especially impressive were the flight views. A pair of Black-bellied Sandgrouse fed amongst one group of bustards, and shortly afterwards our attention was drawn again to the sound of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse. Groups in flight appeared, banking and wheeling over the skyline, before settling in the sheep-grazed field to the east. Although rather distant, the good lights conditions enabled us to have fine views of these attractive birds. We saw at least 30, and perhaps as many as 60 of these during the course of our stay. The dull, cloudy conditions were poor for raptors (indeed not a single vulture in flight was seen all day), but we did manage a female Hen Harrier at this site. Our lunch stop was the River Tamuja, south of Santa Marta de Magasca where the main highlight was the number of Hawfinches: somewhere between 12 and 18 present and often up to ten perched together on cables from the pylons. Half a dozen Crag Martins foraged along the valley. After lunch we stopped briefly on the plains north of the village, where there were a large number of wintering larks, Meadow Pipits and finches. Finally we enjoyed a walk along the Rio Almonte south of Monroy, where the highlight was a pair of Black Wheatear seen very well, as well as a Grey Wagtail and a Blue Rock Thrush. Additional half day: Monday 7th January The target this morning was to reach the highest point in Extremadura, the Pico de Villuercas (1600 metres above sea-level or 5200 feet). It was overcast as we drove towards the area, but as the road climbed through pine and Pyrenean oak we rose through the clouds themselves, emerging above the tree-line to the extraordinary sight of a blanket of white cloud below and just isolated jagged peaks poking above it, against a brilliant blue sky. To the north the snow peaks of the Sierra de los Gredos dominated the horizon. The rocky slopes of the Villuercas peak itself lay above us in sunshine. Soon we had found a place to park and started to search the rocks and boulders for Alpine Accentor. After an apparently fruitless search we sat for a while above a gully, watching for movement. We had fine views of a pair of Blue Rock Thrush and Black Redstart, when suddenly a Wallcreeper flew first one way and then the other across the gully: its crimson butterfly wings being an unmistakeable feature. Within minutes it returned, but entering a side gully was not relocated. Elated we descended, then to encounter a flock of between 12 to14 Alpine Accentor which eventually provided close and prolonged views in excellent light. A pair of Red-billed Chough was also seen: competing a fine trio of high altitude species. Day 4: Tuesday 8th January We set off north to Monfragüe National Park. Although there was broken cloud near Trujillo, as we approached Monfragüe it was obvious that we would have to contend with foggy conditions. At our first stop, the famous gorge of Peña Falcon, we could barely see across to the cliffs opposite. The shapes of sitting Griffon Vultures appeared hunched along the edge of the rock: they, like us, seemingly waiting for the mist to clear. Giving up on the big raptors for the time being, we found a very obliging male Lesser Spotted Woodpecker feeding on a bare tree right next to the path and nearby we had good views of a pair of Rock Buntings. An Otter swimming across the Tajo river below us was also a wonderful bonus. We decided to do one of the circular walks, taking us through Mediterranean woodland and cistus scrub. Small birds were surprisingly few, but we did see Cirl Bunting and Dartford Warbler, as well as three Siskin. It was whilst completing the walk that the clouds finally did rise and break up and then our luck really did start to turn. Several Black Vultures cruised past, the first evidence that raptors were on the move. Back to the car, we returned to Peña Falcon for lunch. The vista had changed completely, with the rock massif in front of us in sunshine and dozens of Griffon Vultures taking off to spiral lazily in thermals. A pair of Bonelli´s Eagle joined the vultures for a few minutes, affording us good views – but nothing compared with what would follow. They reappeared shortly afterwards and whilst we watched them a large winter flock of Wood Pigeon flew upstream. Immediately the Bonelli’s Eagles left the soaring vultures and in what appeared in almost choreographed fashion, split up to approach the pigeons from different angles. They chased the flock, which then responded by bunching-up, creating too dense a target for the predators and the Bonelli’s wheeled off. They circled round and then landed on dry branches at the very top of the Peña Falcon cliff and we had truly magnificent views of the pair perched. Time was running short, so we headed after lunch to the northern edge of the park, to the view point at the Portilla del Tietár. Within minutes of arriving we spotted an adult Spanish Imperial Eagle flying to join a small group of soaring Griffon Vultures. Its distinctive silhouette was easy to see. It drifted off, but soon reappeared, headed off again and then came back to perch on the summit of the cliff opposite: two species of eagles seen perched within a couple of hours!! Like the Bonelli’s, we had superb and prolonged views before it took off, sailing along the skyline. We spent the rest of the afternoon there, watching the huge flocks of Wood Pigeons flying through, as well as Blue Rock Thrush and Black Redstart. The sun set and the Spanish Imperial Eagle returned to roost somewhere behind the cliff. At 18.45, just as it was getting dark and some bats were starting to emerge, the deep sonorous double hoot of Eagle Owl was heard: a wonderful sound. All of us scanned the hillside opposite to try to find the source of the sound. Quite quickly, but almost miraculously, the bird was found, just about discernible against the dark hillside. It moved on to continue calling and we left as it became too dark to use optics, with the haunting sound of the Eagle Owl filling the valley. Additional full day: Wednesday 9th January Generally it was an overcast day with some light mist and occasional fine rain. The focus today was photography and we spent the morning on the plains east of Santa Marta de Magasca, initially walking a track and then driving a short distance down another. The winter flock of Little Bustards that we had found on Day 3 was still present and we had the opportunity of seeing them both in the field and in flight, counting over 50 birds. The numbers of small passerines was incredible, with flocks of over a hundred Linnet, similar numbers of Goldfinches, 30+ Serin and perhaps two hundred Skylark. The only sandgrouse were a pair of Black-bellied, but we obtained good views of several groups of Great Bustard and certainly over forty were present in the area. After coffee we headed south to the ricefields, making a short detour onto the Zorita plains and Sierra Brava reservoir first, although little of note was seen. Stopping at Madrigalejo railway station (disused), we checked the roosting site of Stone Curlew and were delighted to find around 60 present. From there we spent the rest of the afternoon at Casas del Hito, obtaining good pictures of Common Crane and enjoying once again the amazing spectacle of thousands of cranes in the rice stubble and in flight, as well as finishing the afternoon checking a ditch carefully, a search that revealed Cetti’s Warbler, a couple of Water Rail and best of all a fine male white-spotted Bluethroat. Day 5: Thursday 10th January It was damp and misty again for the final morning and after bidding farewell at El Recuerdo, we headed to Trujillo and thence up the A5 motorway as far as Almaraz, where we turned off to visit the reservoir of Arrocampo. Providing cooling water for a power station, the water is fringed with a luxuriant growth of Great Reed Mace and some Common Reed. Mist was rising from the water when we arrived and though the visibility was initially quite poor, we were able to spot several Barn Swallows along with the Crag Martins feeding over the open water. Quickly we found Purple Swamphen, first one and the others and throughout our visit we obtained excellent views of this charismatic species. Cetti’s Warblers sang in short bursts and a Marsh Harrier quartered the vegetation. We walked along the edge of the marsh, hoping to find Penduline Tit, but apart from a very brief view of one at a distance, we were not fortunate. Everywhere was thronging with Chiffchaffs however. Moving to a second spot we spent a good time scanning reeds, obtaining again brief views of Penduline Tit, but good views of Dartford Warbler and an excellent sighting of a Squacco Heron associating with two pigs! A Bluethroat was also seen. White Storks were bill clacking from their pylon nests. At the final spot, where we had a quick lunch before our departure, we had further good views of Purple Swamphen and a fly-past Kingfisher. As we got back in the car at the end of our visit, as if by way of a finale, a selection of raptors soared overhead: Black and Griffon Vulture, Red Kite, Sparrowhawk and Marsh Harrier. Back on the motorway we had an uneventful drive up to Madrid, reaching the airport five minutes before our estimated arrival time and in good time for the check-in for the flight to Bristol. BIRDS RECORDED Excellent results were obtained in this short winter break, despite bouts of bad weather and with little woodland birding undertaken, with an overall list of 122 species were recorded.
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CASA RURAL EL RECUERDO Apartado de Correos 28 Phone: +34 927319349
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Martin Kelsey |
